I first made the bullish case for sugar in February of last year. Since that time, sugar is roughly flat. I, however, am not roughly flat, and am, in fact, way, way below flat, having traded the white stuff poorly. Ah well, lesson learned.
I closed out my last sugar futures position a few days ago so I can invest what is left of my account in another more compelling idea. However, a long-term shift may be occurring that is bullish for sugar, and I may revisit the trade some time in the future.
Sugar, the nutritional pariah that dentists and dietitians have long
reviled, is enjoying a second act, dressed up as a natural, healthful
ingredient.
From the tomato sauce on a Pizza Hut pie called “The Natural,” to
the just-released soda Pepsi Natural, some of the biggest players in
the American food business have started, in the last few months,
replacing high-fructose corn syrup with old-fashioned sugar.
ConAgra
uses only sugar or honey in its new Healthy Choice All Natural frozen
entrees. Kraft Foods recently removed the corn sweetener from its salad
dressings, and is working on its Lunchables line of portable meals and
snacks.
The turnaround comes after three decades during which high-fructose corn syrup had been gaining on sugar in the American diet.
Consumption of the two finally drew even in 2003, according to the
Department of Agriculture. Recently, though, the trend has reversed.
Per capita, American adults ate about 44 pounds of sugar in 2007,
compared with about 40 pounds of high-fructose corn syrup.
“Sugar
was the old devil, and high-fructose corn syrup is the new devil,” said
Marcia Mogelonsky, a senior analyst at Mintel International, a
market-research company.
With sugar sales up, the Sugar
Association last year ended its Sweet by Nature campaign, which pointed
out that sugar is found in fruits and vegetables, said Andy Briscoe,
president of the association. “Obviously, demand is moving in the right
direction so we are taking a break,” Mr. Briscoe said.
Blamed for hyperactivity in children and studied as an addictive substance, sugar has had its
share of image problems. But the widespread criticism of high-fructose
corn syrup — the first lady, Michelle Obama, has said she will not give her children products made with it — has made sugar look good by comparison.
Most scientists do not share the perception. Though research is still under way, many nutrition and obesity experts say sugar and high-fructose corn syrup are equally bad in
excess. But, as is often the case with competing food claims, the
battle is as much about marketing as it is about science.
Some
shoppers prefer cane or beet sugar because it is less processed.
High-fructose corn syrup is produced by a complex series of chemical
reactions that includes the use of three enzymes and caustic soda.
Others
see the pervasiveness of the inexpensive sweetener as a symbol of the
ill effects of government subsidies given to large agribusiness
interests like corn growers.
But the most common argument has to
do with the rapid rise of obesity in the United States, which began in
the 1980s, not long after industrial-grade high-fructose corn syrup was
invented. As the amount of the sweetener in the American diet has
expanded, so have Americans.
Chefs and connoisseurs have also driven sugar’s rehabilitation.
Although even a sugar expert would be hard pressed to tell the
difference between the taste of cane and beet sugar, some enthusiasts
have elevated cane sugar to near cult status.
The Coke that is made from sugar for Jews who avoid corn during Passover has become so popular among cane-sugar fans that some stores have taken to rationing it.
At
Jason’s, a chain of delis with 200 restaurants in 27 states, cane sugar
has replaced high-fructose corn syrup in everything except a few
carbonated beverages. “Part of this is a huge rebellion against HFCS,”
said Daniel Helfman, a spokesman for the chain, “but part of it is
taste.”